We caught up with adventurer Kiera Blaney after she spent 45 days hiking 1200 km around the island of Shikoku to complete one of Japan’s oldest journeys on foot. The route, known as the Shikoku Pilgrimage, takes in 88 temples and although visiting each temple ties the journey together there is so much more to the experience than that.
In this post, Kiera tells us about the sights, sounds, tastes, friendships and hospitality she encountered on her journey and gives some tips for those of us contemplating our own pilgrimage.
Table of Contents
Interview: The Shikoku pilgrimage experience
AI: How did you learn about the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
KB: While I was traveling in South America 10 years ago another traveller recommended me to do the Shikoku pilgrimage and that it’s a once in a lifetime experience that everyone must experience once in their life.
AI: Why did you decide to do it?
KB: After finishing my university studies in 2022 I was feeling burnt out and wanted to reconnect with myself and nature. I felt a pilgrimage like the Camino de Santiago (which I did years earlier) would be perfect because after completing the Camino I felt a deep clarity and calmness as walking is like meditation. I researched about other pilgrimages around the world and then remembered the Shikoku pilgrimage my friend had told me about 10 years ago. After doing more research on the Shikoku pilgrimage I realized that I could coincide my pilgrimage with the cherry blossom season, so I went ahead and booked the ticket, and I am incredibly glad I did. I decided to dedicate the walk to a local charity that supports youth struggling with mental health. We raised a total of 2213.37 AUD!
AI: Were you traveling by yourself?
KB: Yes, I have travelled by myself for most of my travels over the last 15 years however this pilgrimage especially was something I wanted to do alone. When you travel alone you are able to sink into your own personal rhythm and desires out of daily life, not having to check in with others. The pilgrimage is a spiritual experience and something special to experience alone with just your thoughts.
AI: Where did you start and where was your goal?
KB: I started the pilgrimage in Tokushima at Temple 1 (Ryozen-ji temple). I finished the pilgrimage at Temple 1, completing the full circle after visiting all 88 temples. My goal was to complete the pilgrimage in 45 days, thinking I can walk easily 28-30 km a day. However, I did not think about the high mountains along the way. I underestimated the time it would take so I would suggest if you were considering the pilgrimage take more time than you think you will need because some days you will want to rest and some days you might enjoy a place and feel like staying longer so to have extra time is essential.
AI: How long did you plan to take?
KB: I planned to take 45 days because I am an experienced walker, having walked other pilgrimages in Spain and India. However, I underestimated how steep some of the mountains would be and the time frame required. Because of this I had to take a bus and hitchhike on a few sections of the pilgrimage. I opted to take the bus when the path was following the highway road for a long time. Doing this enabled me to finish in 45 days however if you plan to walk the entire pilgrimage, I suggest at least factoring a full 2 months.
AI: Can you share some episodes from your trip?
KB: There are many I could share but here are a few:
Day one I arrived in Tokushima after a long 28-hour journey from Australia to Tokyo and a night bus to Tokushima. In a daze at 7 am I walked into the pilgrim shop at Temple 1. My first time in Japan and knowing only a few Japanese words I was overwhelmed. I asked the cashier what pilgrim shirt I should wear as a woman (long sleeve or short sleeve). She didn’t understand me. I stumbled around the shop calculating the prices to AUD with my phone and then a smiling face came up to me and asked if I needed help. A Japanese woman from Tokyo who is a voice actress then took me under her wing and helped dress me, buy the correct stamp book and items. She then invited me to join her because she was about to visit the temple with her family. She walked me around the temple, explaining the whole process of how to pray and what to do and not to do. It was the best welcome ever. She was driving from temple to temple, and I was walking, however we continued to bump into each other and then she invited me to join her family for lunch at a local noodle house. Before we parted ways, she put her “wagesa” (traditional stole) around my neck, with striking pink flowers, and said the words “osettai” (offer hospitality, expecting nothing in return). My first of many gifts on the pilgrimage.
About 20 km before temple 24 (Hotsumisaki-ji temple) my knee pain became too much. I walked into the next guesthouse to rest. The guesthouse is run by a family, with the grandmother being 92 years old and still working. The family went out of their way to help me. The next morning their daughter, rather curious with my hula hoop, asked to play with it. The mother asked if I would like to come to the preschool and show the children my show, which of course I agreed to. The children loved the show and a 10-minutes show quickly turned into nearly an hour of play. Back at the guesthouse I wanted to pay for my board and meals which the family refused and told me it was a gift. The generosity of the Japanese in Shikoku has completely changed me and how I look at gifting.
Day 45 the sun faded quickly so I decided to stop in a small village for the night and continue the next day. My map had mentioned an onsen where I planned to eat, however it was closed and no other shops nearby. I walked by a man working in the garden, he smiled at me and beckoned me to come closer. He told me to wait and came back with a water bottle. I bid him farewell and continued to find a place to set up camp for the night. I arrived at a henro shelter where I could see other “osamefuda” (name slips) on the wall. I set up my tent for the last time. I sat on the ground and listened to the passing stream. The man from earlier drove past in his truck and once he saw me stopped abruptly and handed me 2 sandwiches and another drink. It’s like he knew I didn’t have food. I thanked him and he left. I was just about to get into my tent when a local woman walked past. She jumped with fright, not expecting to see me. She didn’t speak English, so we communicated with Google Translate. She was shocked that I was sleeping alone and told me to pack up my tent and come to her house to sleep. I arrived and she started cooking for me and offered me drinks and sweets. She took me to meet her neighbors who also offered me food and soon her extended family arrived from the next village with their children to meet me. I decided to give them a hula hoop show and they gave me a large bag of food. It’s astounding that you can go from having nothing on the pilgrimage to having abundance. The next day I gave all the food away to the people I passed.
AI: What were the most memorable views?
KB: The most memorable view was when I arrived at temple 12 (Shosan-ji temple) after the hardest climb of the entire pilgrimage and saw the beautiful walkway up to the majestic temple gate. The views from temples 60 (Yokomine-ji temple) and 66 (Unpen-ji) were also breathtaking. Temple 66 is also unique with its life-like statues, and it is a must visit. There’s a ropeway that can take you up to this temple if you don’t want to walk the mountain.
AI: Is there anything you learned about yourself from this “ohenro” experience?
KB: Yes, I learned to trust again. The overwhelming kindness I received while walking the pilgrimage cleansed me of my unnecessary boundaries and preconceptions of the world. Many times, I asked myself why these people are being so kind to me, they don’t even know me. However, day after day, I received more gifts, help and love from the local people. After 45 days I see gifting completely differently. Previously I would be someone who would give a gift and subconsciously expect something in return or vice versa when I was given something remembering I need to repay them the kindness. However now I see that to be kind is a constant flow and doesn’t need to be repaid or remembered because it creates a ripple effect through a community that affects every single person.
Returning to Australia I am brainstorming ideas to incorporate the idea of “osettai” into my local community.
AI: Any tips for people considering the pilgrimage?
KB: If you are considering the pilgrimage, please take action to do it. Don’t let the idea of how long it is stop you from going. Attempt it in small sections if you have to. I wish everyone to experience this pilgrimage and the wonderful hospitality of Japanese people.
My main tip would be to be flexible. Allow for unexpected changes every day because you never know what the path might bring. Get a local sim card to help with booking accommodation and having access to internet to use Google Translate if you don’t know Japanese.
If a local offers you something, say yes, allow them the gift of giving. And continue the gifting onwards to your fellow pilgrims and local community.
AI: Where in Japan would you like to go next?
KB: I would like to go to Koyasan (the final resting place of Kobo Daishi and the last stage of the pilgrimage), Hokkaido (for its stunning nature!) and Okinawa (to witness the differences in culture). And many more places! I also want to go back to Shikoku again and again.
What is the Shikoku 88 temples pilgrimage and how to do it
Pilgrim at Ryozen-ji temple. Photo by Adashi Minowa/Aflo Images
The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, also known as the “Shikoku Henro”, is a popular pilgrimage route in Japan. It is a circular pilgrimage that encompasses the entire island of Shikoku, visiting 88 Buddhist temples associated with the renowned monk Kūkai, also known as Kōbō Daishi. Kūkai was the founder of the Shingon sect of Buddhism, and he is revered as one of Japan’s most influential religious figures.
The pilgrimage route covers a distance of approximately 1,200 kilometers (750 miles) and typically takes around six to eight weeks to complete on foot. Pilgrims, called “henro”, travel from temple to temple, following a specific order known as the “Kukai-michi” or “Kōbō Daishi-michi.” The pilgrimage route passes through scenic landscapes, including mountains, countryside, and coastal areas, offering a unique opportunity for spiritual reflection and immersion in nature.
The purpose of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage is not only to visit the temples but also to seek spiritual enlightenment, gain merit, and purify oneself. Each temple has its own unique history and significance, and pilgrims perform specific rituals such as chanting sutras, making offerings, and receiving temple stamps or calligraphic inscriptions called “shuin” to mark their visit.
Pilgrims often wear traditional white clothing and carry a staff called “kongōzue” as they undertake the journey. Along the pilgrimage route, there are accommodations called “henro lodgings” or “shukubō,” which offer shelter and basic amenities for the pilgrims.
The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage is open to people of all ages and backgrounds, including both devout Buddhists and individuals seeking a cultural or personal experience. It is regarded as one of the most important and revered pilgrimages in Japan, attracting both domestic and international visitors who are interested in exploring the spiritual and cultural heritage of the country.
Which temples to visit: our recommendations
While all 88 temples on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage route hold significance, here are some of the main temples that pilgrims often visit:
Ryozen-ji Temple (Temple 1)
This is the starting point of the pilgrimage and holds great importance. It is believed that by visiting this temple, one can embark on the spiritual journey with a purified heart.
Ishite-ji Temple (Temple 51)
This temple is known for its beautiful five-story pagoda and picturesque surroundings. It is believed to have healing powers, and many pilgrims visit this temple to seek blessings for physical and mental well-being.
Zentsu-ji Temple (Temple 75)
This is one of the most significant temples on the pilgrimage route, as it is believed to be the birthplace of Kūkai. Pilgrims often visit this temple to pay homage to the founder of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage.
Okubo-ji Temple (Temple 88)
This is the final temple on the pilgrimage route. It is believed that by reaching this temple, pilgrims can attain enlightenment and complete their spiritual journey.
These are just a few examples, and there are many other temples along the route that hold their own unique charm and historical importance. Exploring all 88 temples provides pilgrims with a comprehensive experience of the pilgrimage and the opportunity to connect with Buddhism and Japanese culture.
For a comprehensive list of all the temples and more information check the official Shikoku pilgrimage web site here.
F.A.Q.
How long does it take to complete the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage?
The time required to complete the pilgrimage varies depending on an individual’s pace and mode of transportation. On foot, it generally takes about six to eight weeks to cover the entire route. However, some pilgrims choose to travel by car or public transportation, which can be completed in a shorter time frame.
Do I need to be a Buddhist to undertake the pilgrimage?
No, you do not need to be a Buddhist to undertake the pilgrimage. The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage welcomes people of all faiths or those who are simply interested in the cultural and spiritual aspects of the journey. It is an opportunity for personal reflection, cultural exploration, and connecting with nature.
Is it necessary to visit all 88 temples in sequential order?
While it is traditional to visit the temples in sequential order, it is not mandatory. Pilgrims have the flexibility to adapt the route to their needs and circumstances. Some pilgrims choose to visit certain temples based on personal preferences, time constraints, or other factors. However, visiting all 88 temples is considered a complete pilgrimage.
Can I participate in the pilgrimage without speaking Japanese?
Yes, it is possible to participate in the pilgrimage without speaking Japanese. While basic knowledge of Japanese can be helpful for communication and understanding temple rituals, many temples have signs or instructions in multiple languages, including English. Moreover, the pilgrimage route is well-marked with signposts guiding the way, making it accessible to international visitors.
What are the accommodations like along the pilgrimage route?
Along the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage route, there are various accommodations available for pilgrims, known as “henro lodgings” or “shukubō.” These range from traditional Japanese inns (ryokans) to guesthouses or temples that provide lodging facilities. The accommodations typically offer basic amenities such as a futon for sleeping, shared bathrooms, and sometimes meals. It is advisable to book accommodations in advance during peak pilgrimage seasons to secure a place to stay.
About Kiera Blaney
Kiera Blaney is an Australian adventure travel content creator focused on showing the authentic and cultural side of travel destinations and sharing stories of the local people. With a background as a tour guide and highly skilled circus entertainer Kiera is a fantastic storyteller and creates highly engaging content.
INSTAGRAM: @heykiera_
YOUTUBE: @heykiera_